Buying Tips

Use these tips to help you purchase the right horse - whether you buy from us or from someone else. It is important to be well prepared before you go about the process of buying a horse. Understand what you want, where you can expect to find it, how much you can expect to pay, and what you can expect for what you pay. THEN - BE FIRM. Once you determine your criteria, you will be relaxed and confidant when you view a horse. You can eliminate "browsing", which is a waste of time for both buyer and seller. You will not be swayed by the heightened stress of negotiation, because there really won't be any. You will not compromise your desires. You WILL end up with the horse you want.
TIPS:


*KNOW WHERE TO LOOK. There are many different types of sellers. There are professionals, sales barns/auctions, traders, and private individuals. You can expect different levels of guarantees from each, and this is reflected in the cost of the horse. An auction is probably the most inexpensive place to buy, but you will know the least about what you are buying and can expect NO guarantees. A professional (breeder, trainer, broker, ranch - those who are in the business of selling horses they personally own or represent) is probably the safest place to buy, but will also be the most expensive. You get what you pay for. Private individuals are not professional horse people, so they will base their price and represent their horse based upon their personal knowledge, which may or may not be superior to yours. Traders and sale barns/auctions have bad reputations, not because they sell bad horses, but because buyers expect a level of service for which they are not willing to pay. Sellers go to an auction for a guaranteed sale. Period. There are no guarantees for a buyer at an auction once they leave the sale yard. You might not even know the name of the person from whom you buy a horse at a sale barn, so don't expect more. If you buy from a professional, their future business relies on their reputation. Trust your instincts about people...whatever type of seller. Horses are least expensive in the fall and most expensive in the spring.


*KNOW THE MARKET. Look around the area to see what horses are selling for from the various types of sellers. Right now, Spring 2010 in Montana, good solid riding horses, gentle and middle aged, especially geldings, are at an all time high. Expect to pay $3500 - $7500 for a gentle horse who is broke to ride from a professional and at least $2500 from a sale barn with no guarantees. The more experience, the gentler, the more training, the better looking and stouter, the higher the price. Mares are slightly cheaper. Prospects, young horses, unbroke or green horses, broncs and spooky horses are at an all time low. SO, if you are wrong and think you bought a gentle well trained horse but ended up with a bronc, expect to sell him back for 1/10th of your money, or less. It only takes one mistake, on a chance, to negate the savings you might receive by buying from a less reputable seller. The private market is all over the place. You can find bargains there, if you have time to look and know what to look for.

Know what you can expect. Is there a preview period? If so, what are the conditions? (Expect to be liable for injuries or sickness and to assume all liability.) Is the price firm? (Ours always is.) Is there a guarantee? What kind? How long? Will you get money back or another horse? Is there anything in writing? It's not always necessary, but treat this transaction like any other. Trust your instincts. DO NOT ASSUME ANYTHING. Remember, a horse is a reflection of his environment. If you buy a ranch horse who is accustomed to running on thousands of acres with hundreds of horses, he will change somewhat when placed in a stall or small pen with no other horses. Feed and work will determine his new identity, and it could change. Horses can as easily be mistrained as trained - by you. Keep this in mind when you establish a relationship with the seller. Think now about how you might handle an issue later.

* WHAT DO YOU WANT? Define your goals and desires. Be specific. Do you want a horse for recreational backcountry use? Trail riding? Ranch work? Packing/hunting? Just a companion? Or perhaps a horse for competition, showing, breeding, training? Buy a horse that is ALREADY trained and ready for what you want. Avoid horses that "need miles" or "some work." Unless you are a trainer, you will be unhappy with a horse that isn't already doing what you want it to do. DO NOT COMPROMISE. Do not look at a horse that isn't exactly what you want, even if he's cheap. You'll end up putting more time and money into the horse than you would have by buying one ready. Know what you can spend and do not deviate.

* KNOW THE BASICS. Understand what ages are appropriate for what activities and what level of experience you have. Know how to roughly determine age by looking at his teeth. You can learn this easily online and then test yourself. We believe one horse year is like three human, in really rough terms. So, a five year old horse can be like a teenager, a ten year old horse is like a thirty year old human and is in his prime, and a twenty year old horse is like a sixty year old. They aren't really "set" in their minds and actions until they are close to ten years old. Horses can live to be thirty years old, and most work quite productively into their twenties. If you need reliability, choose something eight or older.

Understand basic conformation. Does the horse look proportionate? Most horses average 1000#. An average horse is around 15 hands high. One hand = 4 inches, measured from the ground to the top of the whither. An average horse can carry an average person. If you are a big guy, you need a bigger horse.

Know your breeds. Quarter horses, paint horses, appaloosas, and other main-stream breeds make great trail and ranch horses and are versatile. Hot breeds (thoroughbreds, arabs) make hot (spirited) horses and hard keepers. Gaited horses are a breed apart, they don't mix well with others on a trail because they are faster. Big boned draft crosses are naturally quieter, duller. Do you like mares or geldings, and why? We like them both. Avoid studs altogether.

Understand basic health issues and what is sound. Look at the horses eyes (can he see well?), feet (are they in good shape?), breath (is he heavey, sound abnormal?), and how he travels (does he move soundly/evenly - not limp - at all three gaits?). Look at his legs. Abnormal looks abnormal, you'll easily notice any arthritis, ringbone, knee, hip, or joint issues, founder, etc. by how he looks and how he travels. Is he sound for what you need? If you are looking for a performance horse, ask for a performance vet check. BUT - if you are looking at a ten year old ranch gelding who you just want to take on an occasional trail ride, make sure he is sound to do THAT (not to run the Kentucky Derby), and overlook superficial bumps, scrapes, or scars that do not affect his soundness. They just come from experience.

Temperament. We look for gentle. Is the horse easy to be around, catch, shoe, trailer? Is he quiet or spooky? If you are not confidant handling or riding the horse the day you buy it, IT WILL NOT GET BETTER.

Looking at the horse. Be prepared and qualified. Talk extensively to the seller before you drive in their yard. Do not go look at a horse unless you THINK he is right, based upon what you have learned. Make it worth bringing your checkbook and your horse trailer.(Most professionals require it.) Ask questions. Where did the horse come from, why are they selling him (this is obvious from a professional, that's their business), what experience does he have, what environment has he been in, what issues are there, where does he excel? Get specific and ask according to your needs - does he picket, hobble, pack meat, load in a two-horse trailer (ours won't), cross water, rope? Make the seller ride the horse so that you can see it at all three gaits. Then, ride him yourself. If you can't ride the horse that day, YOU NEVER WILL. Will he ride away from the corral, can you get on and off, do you like his handle/gaits/feel? Do everything you can to assure yourself it is the right horse. Match your questions and assessment to WHAT YOU WANT. Who cares if he can do a flying lead change if you are looking for a pack horse?


* KNOW THE RULES. All sales west of the Missouri require a legal brand transfer. This is generally paid for by the seller. A health inspection (this is not the same as a vet check) is required to travel across state lines, generally paid for by the buyer. Transfer of breed registration papers must be signed by the owner listed on the registration or last transfer.
2010 Sale Lineup
Buying Tips
Prospects/Ranch Horses
Testimonials
Kid Horses for Sale
Purchase Agreement
Sale Horse Policies
Contact Us
Montana Horses, Inc.

Kail Mantle and Renee Daniels-Mantle
9700 Clarkston Road Three Forks, MT 59752
(406)285-3541 or (888) 685-3697-toll free (406) 581-6501-cell (406)285-0918-fax
From outside the US, dial 001 406 285 3541

www.montanahorses.com | info@montanahorses.com